St Patrick’s Day is the annual celebration of Irish culture and its patron saint Patrick ‘the Apostle of Ireland’. Celebrated globally on-or-around the 17th of March, St Patrick’s Day is synonymous with dry stout, however this is not the only style that the Irish lay claim to.

Irish Red Ale is a sweet, malty beer, brewed at session strength with a vibrant red hue. A prickly carbonation lifts notes of bread and caramel in this light ale, an ale much loved in Ireland and the United States. With regular, sizable exports there is no bigger brand than Smethwick’s Irish Ale.

Brewing has taken place in Ireland since the Bronze Age, with brewers such as Smethwick’s creating malt-forward styles to compensate for a harsh hop-growing climate.

In 1733, Irish brewers were given an ultimatum following a ban on affordable Flemish hops; shoulder the (high) expense of English imports or use innovative grains to bolster their brews instead. Many pursued the latter.

Roasted Barley became a favourite in Irish brewing as it was cheap to make and easy to store. As the grains were roasted intensely (in place of malting), they showcased the added bonus of astonishing colour and flavour.

The most famous Irish style brewed with roasted barley is dry stout. Brewers such as Arthur Guinness used the grain to impart flavours of coffee and chocolate in their beers, stouts that were jet-black in colour with highlights of sunburst red.

This attractive red hue was to be leveraged in lower-strength ales too, ales that were more accessible than strong, dark beers. Mirroring a growing market for session strength Bitter in England, these red ales became a staple for Irish brewers, with a sweet-malt palate and vibrant aesthetics enjoyed by generations to come.

It’s no coincidence that Smethwick’s are a market leader in Irish Red, with a history of brewing that stretches back in to the 1700s. Smethwick’s were established in 1710 in Kilkenny, an Irish town that many brewers call home, brewers including Sullivan’s Ales.

The affairs of Smethwick’s and Sullivan’s were more deeply rooted than beer and, down the line, the brewery directors became neighbours, sharing concerns of politics and philanthropy across their homestead partitions. The lineages of the two families became one when, as the legend goes, Sullivan’s brewery was lost in a horseracing bet to Smethwick’s in 1918. Sullivan’s and Smethwick’s were so entwined that, at the time of the wager, the families had already married into one another.

With a consolidation as smooth as Irish Red itself, Smethwick’s saw the style as a flagship brew, and sort to unleash it on the world.

Having grown export sales significantly (in chief to the United States), Smethwick’s was bought by Diageo (owners of Guinness, among many others) in 1965. By this time Smethwick’s Red Ale was an established Irish brand, capturing the fascinations of an emerging speciality beer market in the United States.

This speciality market had grown, in part, thanks to a celebration of European styles from beer writers such as Michael Jackson. Jackson is heralded as a savour of native styles and, through his musings, many exporters scrambled to get Irish Red Ale stateside.

Not before long the trajectory of Irish Red was accelerated once more, this time by amateur homebrewing, another emerging sector in the states.

Following half a century of prohibition-era restrictions, homebrewing was legalised in the United States in 1978. Ignoring the mass produced lagers that monopolised bars and restaurants, new hobbyist brewers took inspiration from European specialty styles instead.

The provenance of Irish Red struck a chord with American homebrewers, as many shared in the national heritage of beers such as Smethwick’s. As the story goes, these homebrewers graduated to commercial concerns and the American craft beer scene was born, with a rebirth of Irish Red in taprooms and brewpubs alike.

Today, Irish Red is brewed all over the world and no less in its’ homeland of Ireland. With its’ own new-wave of craft breweries, interpretations of Irish Red are lovingly produced and consumed throughout the Emerald Isles.

The heart of Irish beer is alive and beating, with streams of red pumping through its veins and into glasses the world over.

Slainte to Irish Red Ale, have a great St. Patrick’s Day!

CHEERS

Talking of glasses raised, here is a snapshot of three that I found, and how they measure up..

Rascals Brewing Co. (Dublin) – ‘Big Hop Red’ – Although joint-top in terms of ABV (5.0%), this example was by far the lightest in body, with the lifting notes of citrus hops and prickly carbonation making ‘Big Hop Red’ my favourite in the trio. It should be noted that this example is prides itself on an assertive American hop bill, so is likely the most progressive version of the style.

Mourne Mountains Brewery (Warrenpoint, County Down) – ‘Travelling Tales’ – Loads of caramel flavours come through in this Irish Red, just about taking the lead in the incredibly well balanced hop and malt profiles found in this Irish Red. At 5%, ‘Travelling Tales’ is equally as robust in ABV as Rascal Brewing’s iteration, though the big biscuit and caramel notes would trick you into thinking it was heavier. Incredibly enjoyable!

Porterhouse Brew Co. (Dublin) – ‘Red Ale’ – This Irish Red is noticeably deeper in colour than the rest of the trio, a good clue that the beer in this bottle has a strong malty backbone. This example is the lightest in alcohol content at 4.5%, though in a blind tasting I picked this out as the strongest, its’ full mouthfeel and impressive body similar to that of an English ESB. Although I am yet to try many other Irish Red Ales, this example felt the most traditional in form, so perhaps truest to style? I will have to drink more to find out!!

Today marks the start of British Pie Week, a week dedicated to the undisputed champion of pub-grub.

To mark our celebrations, we’ve paired three distinctly British pies with their luscious beery counterparts. Let’s tuck in!

BEGINNINGS

In history’s rich tapestry, pie first appears in Ancient Egypt, where a succelent honey filling was encrusted in oats, wheat or rye. The Ancient Greeks were next to leave their mark on pie, building on the knowledge of the Egyptians to create pastries with fillings baked into them.

Hot on the heels of the Greeks were the Romans, who marched across Europe with rations of food encased in pastry, protected from the blood, grit and dirt of the outside world. When their legions arrived in Britain, the Romans were swift in their introduction of pie to the newly conquered territories.

Pie continued to rise in favour over hundreds of years and, when the Middle Ages arrived, esteemed chefs put pastry at the centre of royal tabletops. Entertainment and food went hand-in-hand in Medieval times as chef’s became banquet coordinators, mastering the art of dinnertime theatricals.

Combining a more palatable flavour with increased robustness, chefs in the Middle Ages created extravagant pastries that were epic in proportion. Once baked these pies were used to conceal flocks of birds and even the occasional jester, primed to pounce at the surprise and delight of all guests in attendance.

Despite these pastry innovations, the crust continued to be discarded of (given as scraps to servants) as guests focused on the more exotic fruits and meats offered at the table.

Eventually our beloved pastry treat was affirmed in high-society, crust and all, in the fields of Melton Mowbray – the modern-day home of pie.

MELTON MOWBRAY PORK PIES

In 18th century Leicestershire, Melton Mowbray bakers began to embrace the heritage of pie as they prepared pork-filled pastries for local huntsmen. Decent enough for gentry on-the-go, pork pies became a favourite in picnics and packed-lunches across the land. Now entrenched in the British diet, the humble pork pie is heralded as a true national treasure!

Today, the town of Melton Mowbray is not only home to the British Pie Awards (the jewel in the crown of British Pie Week), but is also the central location of the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association.

The work of the association’s ten producers came to fruition when, in 2009, their namesake product was awarded Protected Geographic Indication for its distinctive style (bow-shaped from baking without assistance of a supporting hoop and grey in colour through the use of uncured pork).

In accordance with the PGI, a Melton Mowbray Pork Pie must be produced using the methods that were first mastered by local bakers in the 18th century, and has to manufactured within 10.8 square miles of the town.

In celebration of pie’s most elevated form we’ve paired an authentic Melton Mowbray pork pie with a pint of golden ale (brewed with East Kent Golding hops – another British foodstuff with protected status).

Pork pie and golden ale is a fabulous example of a ‘complimentary pairing’, one of the ‘threes Cs’ of beer and food matching. The herbal, fruity notes of Hopback Brewery’s Summer Lighting will bring out the sweetness of the pastry and highlight the delicate spices in the pork.

PIE, MASH & LIQUOR

As the 18th century drew to a close, Britain’s workforces were thrust out of the fields and into the ruthless toil of smog ridden cities.

Among all the blood, sweat and tears of the industrial revolution, pie once again found itself as an everyman’s food. Returning to its’ functional roots the pie became a top pick for hungry workers, sporting a shell that was indiscriminate of sooty air or dirty hands.

With a large working-class population, the East End of London was teeming with pie lovers during the industrial revolution. Those not content with homemade lunches would opt for the pie, mash and liquor (parsley gravy) on offer from one of the many ‘Pie & Mash’ shops in the capital.

‘Pie & Mash’ is a proper London delicacy, showcasing hearty mince-meat that has been set in a suet pastry base. Once filled, the base is topped with either a rough-puff or short-pastry lid. The pie is then plated up with creamy mash and finished with a dousing of parsley liquor. The ultimate in homely nourishment, Pie & Mash is a sum of its’ parts and then some!

The Pie & Mash shops of London’s East End are today regarded a part of our national identity. Shops such as Manze’s in Walthamstow have been granted listed status for their beautiful heritage interiors – temples of pie if you will.

As the second of our ‘three Cs’, a cleansing pairing aims to reset our palette, preparing the mouth for many more swigs and bites. To drinks-match this bona fide British institute, we’ve gone for a pint of ruby ale (‘Three Hundreds Old Ale’ from Chiltern Brewery) to wash away the heaviness of the dish.

A perfect balance of juicy malts and floral hops clear the big foodie flavours, readying you for another onslaught of pie and ale. It’s a humble pairing but that’s what we believe makes it so great and true!

FOOTBALL PIES

As Britain grew to be a powerhouse of global industry, lower-class workers (such as those in the East End) were rewarded with restorative time off, and a modest amount of pocket money to spend along the way.

One popular pastime of the working-class was the thrilling sport of football. Growing into the worldwide industry that it is today, football was nurtured in the pitchside terraces of British clubs, filled to burst with impassioned fans throughout the 1800s. These weekend revellers were not hungry for glory alone, as many sought out food to keep them warm in the open stands.

As a hearty handheld meal, pie warmed the cockles on even the coldest night away in unfamiliar territory. As time went on, pie became the unofficial meal of match-day and the tradition spawned its’ very own subculture..

Representing a widespread acceptance of the category, ‘Football Pies’ are judged in their very own class at the modern day British Pie Awards. It is worth noting that quality of pie is not relative to a club’s stature, as Tom Dickinson found out in his book ’92 Pies’. 92 Pies follows Tom Dickinson, a Bolton supporter, as he ranks the pies from each of the 92 grounds in professional English football (across just one season!!), with Morecambe FC crowned overall champion.

‘The Shrimps’ pies are legendary within the subculture and their Chicken and Mushroom product has won big at the British Pie Awards, claiming both ‘Champion Football Pie’ and ‘Overall Champion’ of the entire competition!

Although Morecamb’s pie is a champion in all senses of the word, most British clubs offer only mass-produced pies at their grounds. In the spirit of accessibility, we’ve gone with the Chicken Balti Pukka Pie, which can be found at The Hawthorn’s stadium, home of Premier League side West Bromwich Albion.

We’ve paired this desi-inspired pie with a brew that is intrinsically linked to India. For those who don’t already know, India Pale Ale (or IPA) takes its’ name from the style of highly hopped pale beer that was exported en-masse to British colonies in India throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. As hops are antibacterial, huge amounts of the flower were used to preserved the brew during its’ long and turbulent journey at sea, introducing fruity aromas and a bitter aftertaste to the ale.

The match of IPA and curry is perhaps the most tried and tested example of a contrast pairing (the last in our ‘Three Cs’ of pairing), so we have confidence that Balti Pie and Tring Brewery’s Pale Four will knock it out the park!

The dank, piney qualities of the Pale Four should cut through the heat of the curry. Bright, fruity aromas will contrast well with a rich and spicy sauce.

THAT WAS GOOD, HUH?

Now that you are full of pie and beer, we’d like to introduce CONTEXT as a bonus C of beer and food matching.

Contextually speaking, beer and pie just go . It sounds right, looks great and tastes amazing. Under the guise of our last ‘C’, beer and pie can be matched in any combination, so please go ahead and try your own!

We hope that you have enjoyed these pairings and will enjoy future pies even more, in the knowledge that pie is as much a part of the British diet as a pint of cask ale.

Here’s to the pies of Melton Mowbray, the East End and rainy British football grounds – and to all those in between!

CHEERS TO BRITISH PIE WEEK