Mid-Chilterns CAMRA are celebrating a campaigning win this week, as the Slow Food Movement have recognised the significance of Cask Beer, through the work of local branch members.
Founded in Italy in 1986, Slow Food is believed to be the world’s largest food movement, touting one-million activists spread over 160 countries. The movement began as a grassroots mission to protect culinary heritage and soon grew to the organisation it is today, promoting biodiversity and campaigning on behalf of endangered foods and traditions.
The Ark of Taste is one of the Slow Food Movements key initiatives, cataloguing endangered food and drinks from around the world. Nominations to the ark are supervised through one of the organisation’s advisory board, who assess a product’s unique characteristics – including cultural and historical significance. If suitable for recognition, The Slow Food Movement safeguards a product through advocacy both at local and national levels, bolstered by the educational resources and public promotion. Members of the movement’s ‘Chefs Alliance’ programme are encouraged to champion ark products at their eateries, connecting slow food producers with chefs at top restaurants far and wide.
Ludlow Marches Slow Food Group was one of the first to champion cask at Slow Food events, commissioning its first cask tasting at the Ludlow Food Festival in 2023. Tastings at the festival have been led in collaboration with beer writer and Slow Food supporter Laura Hadland.
Two-hundred British products are aboard Slow Food’s ‘Ark of Taste’. National treasurers such as Somerset Cheddar, Cumberland Sausages and Three Counties Perry now accompanied by Cask Beer. Not to be found in grain-based-booze isolation on the Ark, cask beer joins peers Umqombothi Beer from South Africa and Rauchbier from Bamberg, Germany. Curiously, hopshoots (as in, those from the hop plant) are another British product on the Ark, celebrated for their culinary properties – used as an alternative to asparagus – and their rich heritage in territories such as Kent, Herefordshire and Worcestershire.
Cask beer, including the way it is produced and dispensed, was nominated for Slow Food’s ‘Ark of Taste’ by Mid-Chilterns CAMRA chairman Jared Ward-Brickett. Both a keen foodie and an accredited Beer Sommelier, Jared believed that cask’s rich heritage – coupled with its struggles in contemporary times – made the drink a prime candidate for Slow Food recognition.
“I believe that cask beer is one of Britain’s finest examples of slow food. Brewers fill casks with beer containing live yeast, which naturally ferments sugars and produces carbon dioxide, lending the beer its gentle effervescence and layered character. Upon delivery to the pub, casks are carefully vented and settled by a skilled cellar-person until they are ready to be served through a traditional hand-pump. This methodical, attentive process produces a unique drinking experience. Lively yet smooth, with subtle complexity drawn from natural fermentation.”
Speaking about cask beer in broader cultural terms, Jared notes:
“It is worth noting that cask is almost exclusively be found in traditional British pubs. These establishments hold a special place in British life and have been a cornerstones of community for centuries. Historically, cask-serving pubs would have offered a vital “third place” away from impoverished homesteads and grim workplaces – environments of warmth, conversation, and conviviality.”
Adbullah Faiz, Progam Coordinator for the Ark of Taste at Slow Food, added:
“The cataloging of Cask Beer in the Ark of Taste is a recognition not only of a traditional brewing method, but of a living culture that values craftsmanship, community, and taste. By safeguarding this heritage, we are protecting the knowledge and conviviality that define Cask Beer, ensuring it continues to inspire future generations.”
Slow Food’s acknowledgement of cask beer comes as efforts are being made to gain UNESCO recognition for the product. The effort, backed by CAMRA and other noted industry bodies, is fronted by the Craft Beer Channel, who have showcased the virtues of cask-conditioned ale through its ‘Keep Cask Alive’ campaign. Just as timely, the news has been published by Mid-Chilterns CAMRA branch during National Cask Ale Week. An apt reason to ‘cheers’ and raise glasses – here’s to cask beer!
1. Bass – Bass Premium Ale – 4.4% – Traditional Bitter – Sponsored by Dave, Mick and Chris “‘The Golden Ale with the Golden Heritage. Bass is richly fragrant with a hoppy bouquet. It has a complex nutty, malty taste and a bright chestnut hue.” 2. Boddingtons – Boddingtons Cask Conditioned – 4.0% – Traditional Bitter – Sponsored by DFH Declutter “This cask version of Boddingtons Ale sees the rebirth of an icon of Northern beer heritage. Boasting a distinctive golden colour and a luscious creamy head when poured. Smooth, creamy and slightly bitter.” 3. Brewpoint – Double Star Bedford Bitter – 3.4% – Traditional Bitter (LOCAL) – Donated by The Olde Kings Arms pub “Gentle biscuit malt sweetness followed by toffee and caramel notes perfectly balanced with a clean, snappy bitterness from all English hops. A proper pub session ale with depth, drinkability and a satisfying, morish finish.“ 4. Bristol Beer Factor– Independence – 4.6% – Pale Ale (CHAMPION BEER OF BRITAIN 2026) “Independence is a distinctive US style pale ale that we have hopped continuously throughout the boil. Reigning ‘Champion Beer of Britain’ – try it before it runs out!” 5. Burnt Mill – Beyond the Firs – 4.6% – Pale Ale (GLUTEN FREE) – Sponsored by Gluten Free Beers app “A grist of extra pale, wheat, and oats have us a lean wort that was hopped in the whirlpool with Citra & Centennial. Dry-hopped with Citra, Centennial, Simcoe, & Idaho-7 for bright tangerine and grapefruit aromas with a subtle piney bitterness.“ 6. DEYA – There’s an App for That – 4.3% – Pale Ale (HAZY) – Sponsored by Brian Crawley “Subtly hopped, easy drinking session pale ale with light floral and fruity notes.“ 7. Elusive – Shadow of the Beast – 5.0% – Black IPA (SPECIALITY) – Sponsored by the Centre in the Park “This Black IPA uses roasted wheat malt to give it a dark appearance and moderately roasty malt profile. We then add Citra and Mosaic hops across six additions to layer in a lovely citrus-forward hop profile.” 8. Five Points – Brick Field Brown – 5.4% – Brown Ale – Sponsored by Three Blackbirds pub, Boxmoor “A traditional English Brown Ale, with floral American hops. Malt-forward and robust, with flavours of demerara, smooth oak, and hazelnuts. Balanced by the floral, elderberry-like aromas of the Willamette hops.“ 9. Hop Tap – Jupiter Heights – 4.2% – IPA (LOCAL) – Donated by The Hop Tap pub “Maris Otter and Munich malts provide a platform from which the Cascade and Chinook hops shine. Dry hopping adds a bold finish to this thirst-quenching golden coloured beer.” 10. Jiddler’s Tipple – Swifty – 3.4% – Pale Ale – (GLUTEN FREE) (HAZY) – Sponsored by Sargeant Architects “Light; refreshing, yet flavourful, this session Pacific IPA has a zingy mix of New Zealand and American hops. Nelson Sauvin, Motueka; Sabro bring an inviting combination of lemon, lime, grape, gooseberry; tropical fruit.“ 11. Kelham Island – Pale Rider – 5.2% – IPA – Donated: The Full House pub “THE legendary golden hoppy pale ale. An award winning beer from its earliest days and still with the same great fruity, floral taste today.“ 12. Left Handed Giant – Titan – 3.8% – Pale Ale (GLUTEN FREE) (HAZY) – Sponsored by Hemel Hempstead Bowls Club “Eminently drinkable, built on a delicate malt bill with whole leaf, pellet & liquid hops added throughout. A modest dry-hop of US & NZ varieties expresses sweet orange & pressed grape with a finish of bright pine.“ 13. Mad Squirrel– Pomelo – 4.5% – IPA(LOCAL) (HAZY) – Sponsored by Jon Humphries “Citra Pale Ale with Lemon & Grapefruit notes. Unfined, single hopped, easy drinking thanks to a hefty Citra dry hop.” 14. Mad Squirrel – Trident – 3.4% – Pale Ale (LOCAL) (HAZY)– Sponsored by Simon Webster and Peter Ellis “Plunge into the depths of flavour with Trident. This pale ale, hopped with Talus, Mosaic, and CryoPop, unveils a sea of citrus and tropical waves. Immerse yourself in the extraordinary depths of taste with each sip—a true liquid treasure from the depths.” 15. Marble – Black Rye Bitter – 4.5% – Bitter (SPECIALITY) – Sponsored by J.Worley Funeral Directors “This beer blends spicy notes from the rye malt with a robust black bitter base, a sprinkle of Mosaic hops giving hints of pine, and earthen spices.” 16. Ossett – Silver King – 4.3% – IPA – Sponsored by Hertfordshire Interpreting and Translation Service “This is a truly legendary beer. Silver King has been a firm favourite since we first brewed it over 25 years ago. A national champion, this invigorating and timeless blend is perfectly balanced from the first sip to the last. Crisp, refreshing, citrusy.” 17. Phoenix – Wobbly Bob – 6.0% – Strong Ale – Donated by The Full House pub “This award-winning amber-coloured beer has a strong malt and fruit balance, evident in both the aroma and flavour, with a slight sweetness, leading to a dry finish.” 18. Rebellion – Puck’s Pale – Golden Ale – 3.8% – Pale Ale (LOCAL) – Sponsored by J.Worley Funeral Directors “Pale Golden session ale with pleasing hoppy character. UK hop variety Jester adds punchy grapefruit and tropical notes. Jester was too aptly named not to use when brewing a beer named after the mischievous jester to the Fairy King.” 19. Rebellion – Roasted Nuts – 4.6% – Traditional English Bitter – Donated by Rebellion Beer Co. “A deep ruby, complex and flavoursome beer, packed with intense and distinctive malt & hop character.” 20. Rebellion – Zebedee– 4.7% – Golden Ale (LOCAL) – Sponsored by Morelli Italian Restaurant “A straw coloured, pale ale, with a clean, fresh & uncomplicated taste. The hops add a crisp bitterness, making it very drinkable.” 21. Siren/Five Points – Jester XPA – 3.8% – Pale Ale– Sponsored by Colin Lambert “This Extra Pale Ale showcases UK Jester hops, offering punchy, fruit-forward aromas. Expect notes of hedgerow berries, peach and grapefruit. Collaboration with Five Points brewery.” 22. Tring Brewery – Doctor ABC– 4.0% – Pale Ale (LOCAL) – Sponsored by Hemel Old Town Market “A papaya a day keeps the Doctor away, right? Well we hope so, as this session pale is loaded with stonefruit flavours from Citra and Sabro hops. Pale grains have been prescribed to the malt bill, lending to a light and spritzy palate.” 23. Tring Brewery – Colley’s Glory – 5.2% – Strong Ale (LOCAL) (FESTIVAL EXCLUSIVE) – Sponsored by Coffee & Wine “A blend of our most premium ales; Death or Glory Barley Wine and Colley’s Dog Ruby Ale. Notes of biscuit and caramel from the Ruby Ale perfectly compliment flavours of treacle and fruitcake from the Barley Wine. This beer is a festival exclusive – drink up!” 24. Tring Brewery – Fanny Ebbs – 3.9% – Golden Ale (LOCAL) “Summer seasonal blonde beer with a gentle citrus hop aroma imparted by Cascade and Saaz hops.” 25. Vale – Smart Big Fish – 4.3% – Amber Ale (LOCAL)– Sponsored by The Red Lion pub, Dagnall “A golden-amber ale with floral and hoppy flavour with earthy undertone. Slovenian hops Aurora and Bobek bring floral notes to a well balanced and refined finish.” 26. Vale – Wychert – 3.9% – Traditional English Bitter (LOCAL) – Donated by Vale Brewery “The best of malt sweetness combined with a delicate hop bitterness, resulting in a deliciously quaffable classic.” 27. Verdant – Beyond the Pale – 4.3% – Pale Ale “Beyond The Pale is a single-hop Nelson Sauvin Pale Ale. Lashings of white grape, gooseberry and lime in this New Zealand banger. with subtle rounding bitterness and a light malt base of Extra Pale malt.”
DARK BEER BAR – THE DAVE LEWINBAR (NORTH BAR)
28. ABC – Old Toby – 5.0% – Smoked Porter (LOCAL) (SPECIALITY) – Sponsored by Andy and Amanda Harvell “Dark, rich and wreathed in beechwood smoke, with waves of chocolate, roast coffee and dried fig. Brewed on Chevallier heritage malt and built to linger.” 29. Brew York – Cherry Tonkoko – 5.5% – Flavoured Stout (SPECIALITY) “With a rich malt base and a delicate vanilla sweetness, Cherry Tonkoko combines the classic taste of our original milk stout with the additional flavour of sweet cherry for an unforgettable experience.” 30. Church End Brewery – Grave Digger’s Ale – 3.8% – Mild – Sponsored by Nigel Harris and Richard Healey “Dark black and red in colour, with a complex mixture of chocolate and roast flavours. The use of two different hops, gives the beer a complex feel and smooth finish.” 31. Kernel – Dry Stout – 4.3% – Stout – Sponsored by Robert Gray “Brewed with a layered malt bill of Maris Otter, Brown, Black, Chocolate, Dark, Crystal, Carafa, and Oats, this beer carries notes of toasted grain, dark chocolate, and coffee. Prominent kettle-hopping and a touch of dry-hop lift the finish.” 32. Mad Squirrel – London Porter – 5.0% – Porter (LOCAL) – Donated by Mad Squirrel Brewery “A dark and foreboding ale, London Porter is a brew of mystery and intrigue. Hidden within its shadowy depths are lurking notes of coffee, chocolate and smoke. Just like its namesake city, there is always more to discover in London Porters unlit complexity.” 33. Timothy Taylor – Landlord Dark – 4.3% – Dark Ale “Landlord Dark takes the celebrated Timothy Taylor ‘Landlord’ profile and gives it a deeper, richer expression. Brewed from the same core recipe, it pours a ruby-brown colour with gentle notes of roasted malt, toffee and mature fruit.” 34. Titanic – Cherry Porter – 4.9% – Flavoured Stout (SPECIALITY) “This lightly hopped, dark red, fruity beer has a rich aroma and a well-rounded character. Sweet Rainier cherry is carefully balanced against generous hop notes and subtle roast flavours.” 35. Tring – Mansion Mild – 3.7% – Mild – Sponsored by Kathy and Tony “A classic ruby dark mild, smooth like velvet, sweet and creamy, you’d be fooled into thinking we were talking about a chocolate box selection.” 36. Wilde Child – Double Trouble – 5.0% – Flavoured Stout (SPECIALITY) – Sponsored by Gill Badminton and Liz Doughton “A full-blown birthday cake stout brewed to celebrate 10 wild years of Wilde Child. Ultra-smooth with a creamy sweetness. Thick, indulgent and unapologetically over the top — exactly how a birthday beer should be.”
KEG BEER LIST (AT THE CHURCH HALL BAR)
37. Tring Brewery – Alchemist Lager – 4.5% – Lager (LOCAL)– Sponsored by ‘the Anonymous Organists’ “Brewed with noble hops from the Czech Republic and Germany. Lightly-kilned malts blend with an authentic lager yeast for notes of gentle spice and sweet grain.” 38. Tring Brewery – Raven King – 5.5% – IPA (LOCAL) (HAZY) “Brewed with wheat and dry-hopped for extra aroma, our hazy core range IPA is punchy, powerful and delicious with a drenching of tropical fruit aromas.” 39. Vault City – Raspberry Sour – 5.0% – Sour (SPECIALITY) (HAZY) “Celebrating the king of Scottish berries, the humble and mighty Raspberry. Grown in the foothills of the Cairgorm mountains; tart, juicy and sweet in equal measure.”
CIDER & PERRY LIST (AT THE CHURCH HALL BAR) 1. Ascension – Dance Commander Sour Cherry – 3.4% – Fruited/Flavoured (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “Sour cherries, wild cider and fresh braeburn juice. What’s not to like?!” 2. Ascension – Gardenia – 4.8% – Cider/Perry blend – Fruited/Flavoured (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “Pear & wild elderflower cider. Floral hedgerow vibes with a soft sweetness from Conference pears.“ 3. Dorset Nectar – Dabinett Organic – 5.0% – Dry Cider (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “This highly esteemed bittersweet apple was originally found in a hedgerow in Somerset by a Mr Dabinett.This is a single orchard, medium-dry authentic cider using Dabinett bittersweet apples. It is still, full juice, smooth and wildly popular.” 4. Dunkertons – Dry Organic – 6.8% – Dry Cider (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “Handcrafted with up to 14 carefully blended organic cider apple varieties with lower levels of sweetness, the result is a beautifully crisp full-bodied cider which is lightly carbonated to deliver a refreshing dry finish.“ 5. Gwatkin – Game Cock – 4.5% – Sweet Cider (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “The Game Cock cider, like the bird is hardy and dauntless in character and won’t take long to ruffle your feathers. Game Cock Sweet Cider is light-brown in colour with rich fresh apple aromas. Sweet-tasting with mild tannins appearing in the aftertaste.” 6. Gwynt Y Ddraig – Two Trees Perry – 4.5% – Perry – Donated by The Rising Sun pub, Berkhamsted “A pale, fruity perry with an aroma of fruit and a hint of honey on the palate. Champion Perry of Britain 2015.” 7. Hecks – Kingston Black – 6.5% – Medium Cider (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL PERRY) “The Kingston Black arose in Somerset in the late 19th Century and produces here a cider that is classic in appearance, taste and strength. It is copper coloured, rounded, almost velvety in texture and is full of flavour.” 8. Lilley’s – Mango– 4.0% – Fruited/Flavoured Cider “An aromatic sweet cider expertly blended with exotic mango to create a mouth watering tropical flavour.” 9. Mr Whitehead’s – Boxing Dog – 7.5% – Medium Cider(CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) – Donated by The Rising Sun pub, Berkhamsted “A strong cider made from handpicked apples, including Worcester and Cox. For fans of scrumpy-style cider.“ 10. Pulp – Berry Lime Blitz – 3.4% – Fruited/Flavoured Cider (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “A lively cider bursting with rich black raspberry and zesty lime. Lightly sparkling and smooth, this easy-drinking cider delivers a bold, refreshing sip with a layered, invigorating finish.” 11. Sandford Orchards – Devon Red– 4.5% – Medium Cider(CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “Devon Red is a perfectly balanced, refreshing, medium cider named after the deep red soil that gives our Somerset orchards their distinctive character.” 12. Saxby’s – Cloudy Strawberry Cider– 4.8% – Fruited/Flavoured Cider (CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “A summery cider made for a sunny afternoon. Subtle sweetness and strawberry succulence.” 13. Snails Bank – Appley Dapply– 5.2% – Sweet Cider(CAMRA CERTIFIED REAL CIDER) “A sweet, bright cider that blends traditional bittersweet apples with a more contemporary Russet apple, making for a light, refreshing and quaffable tipple!” 14. Thistly Cross – Whisky Cask Cider– 6.9% – Sweet/Flavoured Cider– Sponsored by J.Worley Funeral Directors “Cider is matured in Whisky Casks from Glen Moray Distillery. Just enough time passes for the cider to absorb the distinctive tones of the oak and Highland single malt.” 15. Westons – Rosie’s Pig Rhubarb– 4.0% – Fruited/Flavoured Cider– Sponsored by Chloe Gilbert & Jared Ward “Complex, with a distinctive Rhubarb palate, featuring a hint of citrus and a refreshing tart finish.”
PROSECCO AND FIZZ LIST (AT THE CHURCH HALL BAR) (125ML SERVE) 1. Althea – Prosecco D.O.C – 11.0% – Extra Dry “Straw yellow with greenish hints. Fine perlage. Fruity flavours, especially apple and pear, with a floral touch. Smooth and crisp at the same time, thanks to the pleasant acid note.”
2. Althea – Rosaperla D.O.C.G– 12.0% – Extra Dry Rose “Bright pink colour. Fine and persistent perlage. Delicious notes of red fruits on the nose. Balanced, complex and refreshing palate.”
The Hemel Old Town Beer Festival 2025 will be held across the weekend of Friday 18th, Saturday 19th and Sunday 20th of July. Our Friday and Saturday sessions will open midday-22:30, and our Sunday session will be midday-18:00.
Mid-Chilterns CAMRA and St. Mary’s Church welcome you to a one of a kind beer festival, offering up to thirty ales, cider, live music and food sourced by the Hemel Hempstead Old Town Market.
Where: St Mary’s Church, Hemel Old Town High Street, HP1 3AE When: Friday July 18th 12-2230, Saturday July 19th 12-2230, Sunday July 20th 12-1800.
Hemel Old Town Beer Festival is an exciting event based at the historic St. Mary’s Church, situated in the heart of Hemel Hempstead Old Town.
The Hemel Old Town Beer Festival 2025 will be held across the weekend of Friday 18th, Saturday 19th and Sunday 20th of July. Our Friday and Saturday sessions will open midday-22:30 with admissions for over-18s only. Our Sunday session will be open midday-18:00, as our ‘Family Day’, with anyone under-18 welcome and admitted free-of-charge.
The grounds of St. Mary’s enjoy vista views of Gadebridge Park, with the church itself offering a unique venue as the town’s oldest building – gilded in history and heritage.
With over thirty quality beers and ciders on offer, attendees of Hemel Old Town Beer Festival are treated to artisan drinks from local producers and national stars from further afield. Beers and ciders are complimented by live music and a sumptuous street food offering.
Hemel Old Town Beer Festival will be held across the weekend of July 18th-20th 2025.
In early April this year, the hospitality sector was dealt a triple-blow to its operating conditions. The Great British pub, an institution regarded by many as on its knees, saw a reduction to business rates relief, an increase in employer national insurance contributions and an increase to the paid minimum wage.
A cruel joke, two of the three changes came into effect on April Fools’ Day, a day that saw perfect beer garden weather. This led to me feeling conflicted as I sat on the outdoor decking of a sun-drenched pub, pint in hand, ready to talk about challenges faced by modern publicans. I had arranged to meet Mark Prendergast and Oli Board, new managers of Berkhamsted’s oldest pub, The Bull.
Mark (Bar Manager) and Oli (Head Chef) sat down with us for a brew and chat.
The Bull in Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire, was constructed at a time when Henry VIII was on the throne, around 1535. It is not outrageous to imagine the portly king supping at The Bull, considering the monarch’s eleven-year residence at nearby Asheridge House, a property that came into his possession through the dissolution of the monasteries in the late 1530s. Unlike the guillotines and ruffled collars of Henry’s rule, The Bull is still tangible in everyday life, and remains a community hub for the people of Berkhamsted. But the pub is an old building that creaks and groans, and new problems are beginning to rear up.
I SIGNED UP FOR THE LOVE OF THE JOB, THE PEOPLE AND THE COMMUNITY.
“Five percent. We’re looking at five percent off the business from the changes this month. That’s without any other prices rises, or reactionary changes from ourselves.” Honing in on business rates, Bar Manager Mark explained further “The playing field is massively skewed when it comes to local bricks-and-mortar businesses versus giant online retailers. The [business rates] relief has gone down at the same time that we’ve been told to absorb a two-pronged rise in staffing costs. But I didn’t sign up to be a publican for the money. I signed up for the love of the job, the people and the community.”
Three cask beers are served regularly at the Grade-II listed, sixteenth century pub.
YOU CAN BRING A CALF TO WATER
When I’d arrived at the pub, Mark was partway through constructing a new set of garden benches and Head Chef Oli was on his way. Mark seemed relieved to be distracted from the task at hand. “The manufacturer shipped these [benches] out with the correct number of panels, hooray, but nowhere near enough bolts! Anyway, the pub opens in fifteen minutes.”
Destined for The Bull’s canalside beer garden, located at the north end of the pub’s elongated footprint, Mark’s benches were just one facet of an ambitious exterior makeover. The headline feature of the revamp was a new children’s climbing frame named The Calf. The Calf was an impressive turret-shaped structure, a nod, I was told by Mark, to Berkhamsted Castle. The turret’s cabin, complete with a slide, could be accessed via a child-sized climbing wall. Underneath the cabin sat a small booth, adorned as a miniature pub.
“Here it is – The Calf. It wasn’t cheap, it was bespoke in fact. We’re hoping it boosts our family credentials for the summer.” Mark elaborated “We’ve invested so that the pub can become a community space for Berkhamsted residents. We can’t let five percent off the balance sheet compromise our offer. The Calf, the benches, new green spots.. they help us cater to community values. They bring people in.”
The pub’s garden area was flourishing and, helped by Mark’s green fingers, the space looked very much in bloom. He remained pragmatic still “Maybe it was easier for pubs in the past, but operating conditions are getting tougher. These days, you can’t rely solely on a canalside setting. In fact, some think of our location as off-the-beaten-track,” he rounded off “We want to give these people a reason to choose The Bull.”
A CHOCOLATE BOX PUB RUN
Set to the east of Berkhamsted, The Bull’s beer garden offers a first glimpse of the Grand Union Canal from the high street, located at one end of the town’s celebrated pub run. The Berkhamsted run, or crawl, is a route of twelve pubs on a near straight line that straddles either side of the high street. Alongside easy navigation and bountiful pub numbers, the town’s chocolate-box aesthetics make Berkhamsted the beer destination of West Hertfordshire. Held in similar regional esteem as St. Albans, AKA home of CAMRA, this historic market town swings above its weight when it comes to pubs.
Local opinions are split when it comes to the crawl’s health. Some believe that a post-COVID peak in pub numbers makes the growing, affluent town a beer drinker’s nirvana. Others reckon that the latest round of budget measures could be the last nail in the coffin of their beloved locals, already pitted in fierce competition. As part a press release which addressed April’s business changes, CAMRA’s national chairman Ash Corbett-Collins said “Hundreds of pubs have already stopped trading this year … with big increases in costs from higher National Insurance contributions starting this week, and hikes in business rates bills for pubs in England too … we risk losing more pubs which are a vital part of our social fabric”. I was determined to find out what Berkhamsted publicans thought of the run’s future.
“The town is definitely seen as a pub destination and I think that in that respect, we all make each other stronger. Every pub has its niche and serves it well.” It was very nearly opening time and Head Chef Oli had arrived, keen to add his opinion. “Pub crawls, pub-golf, hen dos, stag dos; they still pass through. Not as often as they did. It seems the party economy has shrunk a lot. Clubs and bars aren’t as prevalent as they were pre-Covid and Uber isn’t allowed to operate in the town, so taxi prices can be uncompetitive. Of course, people just have less in their pockets at the moment which is another barrier altogether. Add to these concerns the reduction in business rates relief and increase in NI and wages – it could get tough for all of us.” By now, the pub had began to come to life, so we took our pints out of the sun and into the heart of The Bull.
The interior of The Bull, a Grade-II listed building, features plush leather seats, charcoal-black wood paneling, a large Tudor fireplace and casement bow windows. Though, as Oli said, the pub “creaks and groans”, The Bull is considered a charming highlight of the town’s legendary pub run.
The Bull’s interior features tasteful fittings and fixtures, such as a communal news rack, loaded with beer publications and local literature.
OF TIME AND FREEDOM
Oli had started in The Bull’s kitchen nine years ago, part of a team headed up by previous owners Russell and Shelley. Like the owner before them, Russell and Shelley leased from pub company Red Oak Taverns. Oli remarked “Red Oak Taverns are a good pub company and have looked after this building for years and years now”. Oli and Mark’s relationship with their pub company, or ‘PubCo’, was key to the business’ bigger picture.
In recent years, many of the nation’s PubCos have seen complete relationship breakdowns with their tenanted managers, leading to the establishment of the Pubs Code Adjudicator, a new government body with statutory powers and regulations. Mark expanded on his pub’s relationship with Red Oak Taverns, clearly content with the arrangement “They take care of the building itself. As I said, The Bull is very old and that could be an expensive worry. The structure is covered, as is the boiler and a number of other big assets. This leaves us with the time and creative freedom to grow the pub, even in the face of new challenges coming this month.” Like Oli, Mark had worked under Russell and Shelley for a respectable spell, now in his eighth year at the pub.
Mark, Bar Manager at The Bull, pours a pint of local ale.
With a combined tenure of nearly two decades, Mark and Oli had wowed thousands of covers and poured countless well-kept pints before they took the reins in January 2024. Common knowledge among by the pub’s regulars, Oli and Mark prided themselves on a warm welcome. I was impressed that with each guest passing through the door, of which there were many on this particular Tuesday afternoon, came a first-name greeting and a familial chitchat with either manager. The pub was far removed from the ‘painted on smiles’ cliché so bemoaned of clinical hospitality. Mark and Oli knew from experience, a pub can be the centre-point of community life.
AS WITH MANY BRITISH PUBS, THE BULL HAS GOT A SIMPLE YET APPEALING PURPOSE. WE DON’T PLAN TO DEVIATE FROM THAT, JUST TO MAKE IT THE BEST IT CAN BE.
Oli (back right), sharing a laugh and a drink with some of his regulars.
“We’ve been in charge for a year and three months now and we’ve not had a single instance of anti-social behaviour. We’ve not had to eject or bar anyone. Unlike the supermarkets, who seem to get an easier ride, we have a duty of care to supervise our drinkers. Locals know The Bull to be a safe and welcoming space. That, for us, is what it’s all about.” Mark is the most local of locals, living above the pub where as he told me, there were still fixtures for hammock bedding. These fixtures are a reminder that The Bull was a popular guest house in the heydays of the canals. Oli added “The pub has hospitality heritage. Not much has changed besides the offer of beds and hammocks. As with many British pubs, it’s got a simple yet appealing purpose. We don’t plan to deviate from that, just to make it the best that it can be.”
Rounding off our chat, Mark doubled-down on Oli’s ‘simple but well-executed’ sentiment “You can’t be everything to everyone. We used to have a commercial-grade coffee machine, but there’s no need to compete with the fifty other coffee outlets in town. We removed live sports from the pub almost as soon as we took over, which was a sweeping change.” As a spectator in The Bull many times myself, I knew the sizeable crowds live sports had drawn in. But, as Mark explained, with a near eightfold increase in broadcasting costs, the 24/25 season had brought little financial promise. A change in management called for a clean slate. Mark and Oli were determined to crack the basics.
UP TO SPEED, AND ONE FOR THE ROAD
These days, ‘Monday Quiz Night’, ‘Cheap Tuesday’ and ‘Fish & Chip Friday’ put bums firmly in seats, complimented by unique seasonal events such as beer and food matchings, wine and food matchings, and street food markets. Oli’s culinary passions are clear, though in his own words he didn’t want to “..project [my] personal obsessions onto a menu that is expected to be refined British pub fare. It’s tried and tested and I respect that.” He concluded “There are personal touches; seasonal produce, weekly specials, recipe twists.. but the beer and wine matching events, served up with special small dishes, allow the kitchen team and I to explore our gastronomic curiosities. Thankfully, our guests love these events just as much as we do.”
It had come time to finish our interview, which had meandered into a friendly babble through the help of some local cask ale. I was left with the impression that both managers took the changes of April 1st very seriously, understanding the consequences for British publicans, the Berkhamsted run and their newly acquired business venture. But to them it was more than a business venture, it was a lifestyle and a purpose.
Oli and Mark recognised that warm welcomes, well-kept beer, quality food and a sense of community make British pubs a sum of their parts and then some. Sure, there were new challenges for Berkhamsted’s oldest pub, but the outlook of The Bull’s latest custodians was optimistic and resolute. Oli and Mark were going to give it their all.
Cheers to The Bull!
The Bull can be found at 10 High Street, Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire HP4 2BS. To join CAMRA in supporting and protecting British pubs, or to find out more about the organisation’s stance on recent changes to business rates relief, the paid minimum wage and employer national insurance contribution, please visit camra.org.uk.
This feature was written by accredited beer sommelier Jared Ward-Brickett, and produced with the support of Laura Hadland via a mentorship scheme from The British Guild of Beer Writers. If you’re interested in finding out more about the Guild, click here.All words, photos and graphics by Jared Ward-Brickett.
Mid-Chilterns CAMRA are thrilled to announce our annual ‘Pub of the Year’ awards for 2025, withThe Three Blackbirds, Boxmoortakingoverall champion ‘Pub of the Year’.
Congratulations to Lee, Charlotte and all of their team at the pub!
The Three Blackbirds pub in Boxmoor, Hemel Hempstead – Mid-Chilterns CAMRA Pub of the Year for 2025.
Our Joint ‘Runner-Up Pub of the Year‘ recipients have been announced as the The Rose & Crown in Ivinghoe and The George Ale House in Great Missenden. Congrats to both teams at their respective pubs!
‘Cider Pub of the Year‘ has been awarded to The Rising Sun (Berkhamsted), a treasure trove of close to twenty artisinal ciders and perrys.
Our ‘Most Improved Pub of the Year‘ goes to The Queen’s Head in Chesham, a pub that has seen an incredible reincarnation under the guidance of Paul and Manuel.
‘Community Pub of the Year‘ goes to The Anchor in Bourne End. This award has been granted for the Julie and Don’s outstanding efforts since reopening the pub in May 2024. Congrats again to Julie, Don, their team and the extended Anchor community.
‘Newcomer Pub of the Year‘ went to The Hop Tap in Market Square, Hemel Hempstead. Having just opened the premise, which used to house Monks Inn micropub, in November 2024 – owners Tony and Tracey have made a big splash with their quality and range.
A rare award recognising twenty eight years of management was presented to Tony and Lorri at the The Post Office Arms in Boxmoor. The ‘Personal Recognition Award for Long Service and Dedication‘ award was issued in celebration of the couple’s phenomenal tenure at ‘The Patch’ – well done again to Tony and Lorri!
For the first time ever, a special Branch Campaigner of the Year award was commissioned to celebrate the efforts of Richard Abraham who fulfils Tapler Editorial and Brewery Liason Officer Roles within the branch. Richard’s two official titles are just a drop in the ocean when speaking of his dedication to real ale and quality pubs – congrats to our branch campaigning champion.
To read more about our ‘Pub of the Year’ award winners please visit our ‘Awards‘ page!
Cask-condition beer is a distinctively British drink, but what do we mean by ‘real ale’ and how is it made?
Generally speaking, ‘cask-conditioning’ describes the natural C02 production and flavour development achieved through in-cask fermentation. This historic technique takes place inside a container from which fresh beer is served, and is regarded a cornerstone of British brewing heritage.
Like all beer, real ale is starts life in the brewhouse and enjoys processes such as mashing, boiling, fermentation and maturation. Kick-starting brewday, grains are milled into a grist for the brewer to steep in warm water. This steeping process, known mashing, sees fermentable sugars coaxed out of malted barley along with the grain’s flavours and colours. The resulting mash liquid is called Wort, which is pumped to the kettle for a boil with the inclusion of hops. Hops are added throughout the boil, with more added at the start for bitterness, or more added at the end for aroma. Once the Wort has been boiled with hops, it is lowered to around 21 degrees as the brewers yeast is pitched to trigger fermentation. Ale fermentation lasts around four days, followed by a similar maturation time and then, packaging. It is at this point that beer destined to become real ale cuts a path of its own.
At point of packaging, firkins (real ale casks) are filled with beer which contains live yeast; a living micro-organism that consumes fermentable sugars and, in turn, produces CO2 and alcohol. Alcohol production is has for the most part concluded at this point, meaning only natural CO2 and flavour develop during conditioning. Cask-conditioning doesn’t end at the brewery, and continues at the pub under the watchful eye of skilled publicans.
Cellaring often happens in, would you guess it, the cool underground cellars of pubs where ale is held at around 11 degrees, and is vented to release excess C02. Once the beer achieves a C02 equilibrium, regular tests are undertaken to assess clarity, aroma and flavour. For these efforts, the cellarman is held by the brewer as an equal peer in creation of the perfect pint; each party laser-focused on this most mystical pursuit. Real ale is ready for service once, and only once, the condition of the beer has been declared perfect. Often, this proclamation arrives only after multiple days of considered conditioning.
Handpulled to the bar, a smooth and sessionable beer is presented to the drinker, threaded with the nuance and complexity that only real ale can offer. Phew, what a journey! We hope this longer read was worth the time and consideration, much like the methods used to craft sumptuous pints of quality real ale. ‘Real Ale’, ‘Cask Beer’, whatever you call it, now you know how it’s made. We think this makes the beer that-bit more tasty.
We’ve been radio silent for little over a month, reminiscing on the many great memories made at this year’s Hemel Old Town Beer Festival.
It was incredible to see the Hemel community come together over the weekend, with over one-thousand guests welcomed at the stunning St Marys Church.
Reminiscing is not the only thing we’ve kept busy with, as numbers have been crunched for our fundraising efforts.
Festival goers, we are thrilled to announce that you have raised £8,613 for our not-for-profit causes!!
YOUR IMPACT
As generated by you, the event surplus will help to promote and protect St. Mary’s Church. Grade-I listed and dating back to 1140, Hemel Hempstead’s oldest building is still central to life in the historic Old Town. Markets, art galleries and bike shows are among events welcomed to the church and its leafy grounds, with external support for nearby charities fulfilled by Reverend John and the clergy at St. Mary’s.
Surplus funds stand to benefit another time-honoured pillar of British community, the local pub. Through funds raised for the Campaign for Real Ale (Europe’s largest consumer group), CAMRA champions community pubs and brewers, preserving the nation’s unique culture of cask-conditioned ale.
HOW THIS WAS ACHIEVED
This surplus is close to ten-fold that of the first Hemel Old Town Beer Festival in 2023. As margins at the bar saw no change this year, this growth can be attributed wholly to public support (footfall quadrupled that of our inaugural event!) and assistance from our amazing volunteers and sponsors.
ONE FOR THE ROAD
There is nothing more satisfying than affecting real and positive change. We hope to share the effects of our surplus as they happen – broadcasting the positivity that you have helped create through our social media and Tapler magazine channels.
Thanks again to our volunteers + sponsors and a special thank you to our food vendors and live music acts (as curated by Hemel Hempstead Old Town Market).
A final big thanks to you our guests; for yet another enjoyable and fruitful year at the Hemel Old Town Beer Festival.
Mid-Chilterns CAMRA are thrilled to announce that CAMRA’s ‘Good Beer Guide 2025’ is out this month and features fifteen of the branch’s greatest pubs.
HERTFORDSHIRE ENTRIES
• The Bell, Tring • The Bell Inn, Bovingdon • The Crown, Berkhamsted • The Full House, Hemel Hempstead • The King’s Arms, Tring • Oddfellows Arms, Apsley • The Rising Sun, Berkhamsted • The Robin Hood, Tring • The Saracens Head, Kings Langley
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE ENTRIES
• The Blue Ball, Asheridge • The Crown, Ley Hill • The Crown Inn, Little Missenden • The George Ale House, Great Missenden • The Queen’s Head, Chesham • The Red Lion, Dagnall
The Good Beer Guide is CAMRA’s seminal publication featuring 4,500 of the UK’s best real-ale pubs, in rural and urban areas.
Now in its’ 52nd edition, CAMRA’s publication is the best-selling beer and pub guide with a foreword from BAFTA award-winning producer Iain MacLeod alongside consumer features, industry analysis and a comprehensive guide to hundreds of UK breweries too!
The Good Beer Guide’s 2025 foreword is from Coronation Street producer Iain MacLeod
As always, our nominees were curated from the highest scoring establishments on WhatPub, CAMRA’s public scoring portal which allows all members to put their local forward for awards and commendations.
Congratulations once again to all of our entries – here’s to another fantastic edition of CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide!
Ales from local brewers such as Mad Squirrel, Tring Brewery and Chiltern Brewery featured in 2023.
The Mid-Chilterns branch of the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) has announced the return of Hemel Old Town Beer Festival, held next month at St. Mary’s Church in Hemel’s historic Old Town.
Hosted on the weekend of July 19 to 21, the Hemel Old Town Beer Festival will feature thirty real ales, served alongside lip-smacking ciders and perrys. Live music and street food are to be procured by Hemel Old Town Market, so that punters can enjoy local musicians and a variety of tasty dishes on the grassy verges of St Marys.
Proceeds from the community event will be split between the two not-for-profit organisers, meaning that any surplus will go towards protecting pubs and the historic interior of St. Mary’s Church.
Sessions will be opened by a special guest speaker each day with Tim Amsden (first Mid-Chilterns CAMRA chairman and former CAMRA national chairman) already confirmed for the Saturday. Last year saw beer-writing legend Roger Protz, Mayor of Dacorum William Allen and the Bishop of Hertford Jane Mainwaring make appearances to engaged crowds of local drinkers.
Tickets for the festival are on sale now at hemeloldtownbeerfestival.co.uk.
Jared Ward, Chairman for Mid-Chilterns CAMRA and Beer Festival Organiser says:
“We’re so thrilled to see Hemel Old Town Beer Festival back for another year, we cannot wait to share a pint or three with the local community.
As a not-for-profit event, our main goals are to champion quality beer and the historic Old Town of Hemel Hempstead. Protecting public houses is our MO and protecting the church and its beneficiary charities is in the interest of Dacorum as a whole. We enjoyed ourselves so much last year and are looking forward to building on the event’s successes next month.”
Attendees turned out in their hundreds for last year’s festivities.
Rev. John Williams of St. Mary’s Church added:
“Last year’s inaugural event was sensational, it was great to see hundreds of local people enjoying themselves in the grounds of St Mary’s. The Grade-I church, Hemel’s oldest building, has been welcoming visitors since 1140.
Building on last year, we have reduced entry price to just £5, and have bolstered our flavoured-cider range, which was incredibly popular in 2023. Sunday will mark our first-ever Family Day, with free entry for under-18s.
Community is at the heart of what we do, last year we raised hundreds of pounds for the church and our affiliate causes such as Liberty Tea Rooms in the town centre.“
Hemel Old Town Beer Festival will open at midday and close at 22:30 on Friday and Saturday (over-18s only), opening at midday on the Sunday and closing at 6pm.
Tickets for the Hemel Old Town Beer Festival are on sale now starting at just £5. Advance tickets and further information are available at hemeloldtownbeerfestival.co.uk
Mid-Chilterns CAMRA are thrilled to announce our annual ‘Pub of the Year’ awards for 2023, withThe King’s Arms, Tringtakingoverall champion ‘Pub of the Year’. Congratulations to Rob (landlord), Gavin (manager) and all of their team at the pub!
Rob Muirhead at The King’s Arms, Tring
Our ‘Runner-Up Pub of the Year‘ has been announced as the fantastic Full Moon, based in the village of Hawridge. Congrats to all the team!
‘Cider Pub of the Year‘ has been awarded to The Rising Sun (Berkhamsted), a treasure trove of close to twenty artisinal ciders and perrys.
Our ‘Best Improved Pub of the Year‘ goes to The Crown in Ley Hill, a pub that has seen an amazing reincarnation under the guidance of licensees Rob and Sandra.
‘Community Pub of the Year‘ goes to The Red Lion in Dagnall. This award has been granted for the team’s outstanding efforts through community events, charity fundraising and second-to-none hospitality. Congrats again to Debbie, Ed and the Red Lion community.
A rare award, for individual acclaim, was presented to Clint Whitaker, who has been commended with a ‘Personal Recognition Award for Dedication to Cask Beer, Real Cider and Community‘ award. Clint’s operating of the multiple award-winning and sadly recently closed Monks Inn have left a lasting legacy in the Mid-Chilterns beer scene. A massive well done to Clint!
To read more about our ‘Pub of the Year’ award winners please visit our ‘Awards‘ page!
